Beyond the front door.

~

leaf 3

~

Bear tracks in the snow
on the front porch of the Little Cabin

he cleans up the last of my homemade cheese
sour and spoiled and I forgot to clean up

he steps on the bucket with which I gather wood ash
from the old cook stove
Crushes the metal side

and smears the mirror we keep outside under
which we hang wet coats
To dry in the intense high altitude sun

How many times have I see such marks
on the outside of cabin windows or inside of the old dump truck
stinking and smelling of last winter’s trash

who but me, my son wonders,
claps their hands in glee
to know her porch is chosen and shared

~

leaf 1

~

Wild enough
a rosebud
Ripe to bloom

awaiting patiently on my front porch
and all I need to do is reach

what I have been waiting for
may finally be here.

~

upper rio grande

~

in my temple

outside
beneath heavy clouds
grey at noon
pink in evening
anointing me with soft snow

I sit back on hard rock in cold wind
and feel the bliss of eternal passion
in the wail of the still open waters
tears before the silence
of the deep freeze

~

last of aspen in early snow

~

Though far too much for me in summer
the crowds within a half mile of this dirt road
I have never found any place
As wild
as it is
in winter

Here

as far away from traffic and telephone
and gossip and a grocery store
from sound and synthetic stimulation
from humidity and heavy air
open trails and exposed flesh

far away from you

~

view of the ranch from across river

~

The wilds call

Here I have wide white wild wind
and really, I wonder,
what more do I need

maybe I already have

enwrap with
wind and white and wide open
remote, removed, far, far away

and for now I find myself
Here
Home

and am glad to find the world surrounding me
A world you know nothing about
and care for even less

or perhaps you have a picture
of where you once were that looked a little like this
But it wasn’t won’t be and is not

for this here and now what I see and what I do
Is mine
and not all of it do I chose to share

glimpses I allow
Open the door and let in the wind
with a swirl of brown leaves and white flakes of snow

and I may let out the smell of
fresh bread and warmth from the woodstove and
the sound of my boys’ laugher and

my dog barking and the cats purring and
my heavy breath and labored beat of my
heart as I have only just returned from

seeking out the last of the wilder beasts
from the big back yard a place where few remain
Where even big game seeks solace in lower ground

They say it’s the highest, hardest
place to hunt in the Lower 48

what I hunt
is just as elusive
within me

~

rio grande

~

Winter here is a more wild, harsh and remote

place than any I have been to

any place I choose to be

though summers at times are hard to endure

This one was different
drought, fire, floods
evacuating all but us,
silence like winter
only it was warm
And we were waiting
in  eerie silence
for something
more than flames and smoke
or the feeling that maybe it was time to leave
stuck in silence in a time there should have been children laughing
And the only noise you heard was
rumors as destructive as wildfire

I won’t forget this summer
and I can’t say my memories will be fond
Though you know how that can happen with time

~

gunnar 1

~

There will be no ribbons for you my friend
only miles beside me
beside our horses

freedom you tell me you
need
spoken in loud barks

after a coyote
a half a mile away and
you’re hot on his heels

reckless they may say
but I see a heart bigger bolder and braver
than any I have known

at times I confess I thought to
Train him, teach him, subdue him
and break him like a old swayback horse

finally I have come to know
These things can’t be taught
and come only when we learn to let go

the wild beast that ran away
And when I awoke
on my doorstep he was waiting for me

~

gunnar 2

~

And then there was… snow.

And then there was… snow.

~

snow on pole sept 27x

~

Snow!

It happens every year. Lots of it, sooner or later. More or less, starting sometime early in fall.

This year just a little earlier than some. It’s been one of those kinda years.  If you think you can predict it, you’re wrong.  If you’re counting on it, don’t.

In this case, what I did expect, I got.  Here, snow scares people away.  Those that try to remain a little longer hole up indoors.  Or maybe they were there all the time.  They’ll all be gone soon enough.  We’re still the only nuts to remain. Slightly cracked as we three may be.

Meanwhile, the mountain makes her silent transition. This is the part I love. The slow silken slide into Winter. The voyeur without a voice, only the written word within me, hiding behind a tree or out there on a browning withering slope, exposed, watching as she returns to her soft, serene existence.  Sharing her secrets, this intimate time, with those who care and dare to step away from the safety of a dirt road, rattle of trucks and warmth of cabins. Far away.

Coming to life in the snow and ice.  Fifteen degrees in the morning (that’s minus nine and half Celsius) and she only begins her long season of deep, dark blue days of frosty breath and sparkling white nights.

Cold and snow bring the wilds back to life. Wild life.

On the surface, the dormant season begins.

For us, it just begins to stir.

~

gunnar on the divide

~

boys on the divide

~

We head high.

Now is our time to play.

We ride up and across the Divide.

The snow teases, leaves us wanting for more.  I see the boys on their horses and know their hearts and souls are gone, lost in deep powder and blinding sun and wind, fast and wild on the back of a snowmobile, where the white world is theirs and they are a part of it.

Nine hours in the saddle.  Wildlife sightings include eagles, hawks and coyote sitting to watch us on the ridge of the Divide, one moose, more deer and elk than I have ever counted in one day, and only one other human being, a solitary bow hunter probably a little surprised to see us riding down through the snow where no tracks lead up and in.

~

crossing a snowbank

~

bull elk

~

I’m not political, prefer keeping my opinions to myself, wish y’all might do the same, and in general, like politicians about as much as big business.

But today, I let lose a roar.  Why not?  After all.  I am woman…

Our government is again on the brink of a shutdown. Many of us have already shut down.  We have lost hope in a government and people who support and vote in those who think it’s funny to read children’s stories instead of taking charge and initiating change from a place of business and a house of our government.

I am not impressed.  In fact, I think it’s disgraceful.

Good riddance to this government?  If so, then all of you. Does this mean the politicians won’t be paid and their benefits will be frozen?   Or as usual, is it just those of us who vote, not those for whom we vote, who are affected?

I’m sorry for what it will do on the global level and all the jobs that will be lost because of this foolish choice.  As for me on this mountain, all we’ll see are things like this:  No more decorative fences built for the fun of it, or new hitching rails installed beside old ones left in disrepair.  Shucks.

Selfishly, I can hide out up here and ride out the wave and wait for someone who really cares enough to act to wake up.  I’m an optimist.  I still think there might be someone in Washington who will.

Otherwise, I see a nation quick to point fingers and slow to take responsibility.  It’s not just our leaders.  It’s all of us.  Wake up and look around.

What is the excuse the politicians (and perhaps, us?) play with this time?  Fear of change?

Change, damn it.

Some change is better than no change, unless you’re too afraid to let go of the past, and are too dumb to see that past is already gone.

~

last light coming down lost

~

How silly I feel to allow myself to be down when I see how easy happiness is.

Just do it.  Be it.  Now.

When I was nineteen, the rat race I was born and raised to run in New York City proved to be not that which I wanted for the rest of my life.  I found – or rather, made – a way out, and left.

In time, I built a life that I didn’t know then could exist and that if I wasn’t the one living now, I’d be wishing I was.

It starts with a dream.  And then you have to have guts.

Or not, and be happy where you are and with what you came from, because I look around and know many who actually are.

I wasn’t one of them. So for those of you who are more like me and who had to write our own rules, I recommend this little bit of a reminder.  Inspirational reading.  I read it this morning on line and printed it out and pinned it on the fridge so I read it every morning.

Twelve Things Happy People Do Differently

It starts with gratitude.

Look around.  See how much you have to be grateful for.

Maybe I have it easy.  It’s beautiful here.  Last year I invested in a good camera.  Now it’s even easier. Through the lens, any lens, we can learn to see, to look, and even, to feel.

Harder still is looking within.  And finding the beauty in there, too.

~

the head of lost trail creek

~

rio grande pyramid

~

I leave you today on a happy note.

For all those who have helped to make this dream come true… thank you!  Indi and Carlos are home in Hawaii!!!!

~

indi and carlos 2

Farewell my friends!  What a wonderful new life is beginning!

~

Today.

~

sun setting in the window

~

Today.

Another week passes, with rain on the laden heads of grasses rich and bursting, waist high and ready to spread their store, and frost out on the flats along the Divide silver sparkling in first morning light,  and clouds white and heavy and full of mischief enwrapping the stoic mountains that keep their stone face in spite of the teasing and tickling of the continued rains that drip and cover and pour and wind little ribbons of silver down charred matte black hillsides and let you know really, it will all be ok.  Some day.

Some day.  Today.

~

a ditch on the divide

 

~

dog on the ditch on the divide

~

And now the water flows.  In the ditch we have so carefully tended.  It’s not our water, but we watch it, mesmerized, dancing down the course we have cared for.

A rare occurrence for this time of year.  For our ditch.  Perhaps it is the rains.  Work is disrupted.  A bittersweet parting.

Dare I complain about that which I so longed for only months ago as the moss cowering beneath the barren branches of the stripped spruce trees shriveled and dried and the grasses wilted and browned and my spirit became still in the wake of the winds that stirred mighty fires?

~

the ditch flows

 

~

ditch on the Divide

~

Today.

Now what? I ask myself as I stare at my hands held before my tired eyes. Eye lids drooping over a once solid steel grey stance. Do I already have too many years of squinting while working in the strong high sun?  Too bad.  I’ll take the wrinkles I have earned and hope my husband finds them as enchanting as the wild ride of a life that produced and continues to feed them.

My hands.  I see calluses I have worked for.  Only to watch fade away for now their work is done. For this season at least.  What will the next one bring?

~

aspen leaf

 

~

mushroom

~

I hate to be done.  For where does that leave me, what must I do today?  Only that which I seek out and find, not that which is pressing and forced.  It’s a matter of choice.  And is that not often a bit more than we can bite off and chew?

Unless I knew the answer to the riddle for which I am always stirred to dance.

“What’s next?”

~

going through the grass

 

~

Weminuche Pass on the Divide

~

What’s next?  Let me tell you as I try to figure it out myself.  Make it up as we go along.

We leave camp, leave even our Little Cabin by the Big River.  Leave silence, simplicity, hauling water, listening to the river roar brown and milky about the constant rains and the mud slide up river.  Leave the outhouse, the bunk beds, the cabin twelve by twenty which we moved, for those who remember when, by snowcat away from that which was to that which will be.  We’ll build some day.  Soon enough.  Bigger.  Fancier.  With a toilet and a kitchen sink.

As I move back up to main camp and luxuries like solar power and flushing toilets and washing dishes in the sink, I wonder.

Better?

Today.

~

rio grande pyramid

~

 

 

My dirty little secret

~

purple flower

 

~

sun set

~

blue bells

~

Another week worn and older and more work done at the ditch.  We do good work.  Life as a work of art.  Work as our palette.  No matter if it’s digging ditch.

Frost already in the morning.  Rain so hard you wonder if you’ll ever dry and suddenly fire becomes a treasured gift though I don’t know if I’ll ever look at thunderheads the same way and not see plumes of smoke rising from the raging flames.  Our views are tainted.  Maybe it’s just me.

Get on with it.  Dig. Sweat. Soak through.  Cringe when you pause, rest against your shovel and watch another backpacker in the distance not figure out the way across the great Divide.  The spine of the sleeping beast.  I feel her roar, tilt back my head, and join in her wild howl.  Maybe the backpacker wonders what scary beast lurks in this high country besides the usual fear of bears. It’s just me.  Some crazy middle aged mountain mama out here digging ditch for a living.

~

visitor at camp

 

~

ditch digging getz family

~

yet another visitor to camp

 

~

Wild life, changing seasons, strawberries beneath every step on the hill up from the horse pasture.  In camp come does, bucks, bull moose, mama grouse, and Gunnar flushes out a few little ones that spook the horses as we lead them to the river for water.

Here’s life’s simple.  It’s no secret, really. It’s about hard work, silence, the disturbance of airplanes, simple living, simple food.  Everything tastes better when you’re tired.

Dirt work, dirty work.  This week Norman packs in two hundred pounds of lumber and we lay down our shovels, pick up our hammers and hand saws for two of our days here in the wilds during which time we reframe the diversion box that was sagging almost as bad as an old barn ready to fall over under the next load of snow.

~

packing in 1

 

 

 

~

packing in

~

I’m out there and I want to get further.  I fantasize about owning the valley. Maybe the whole mountain.  I don’t want to see the bright white or fluorescent colored pin point prick of a backpacker a mile away.  I want to be alone.  With my boys, my critters, my hard work, the wind, the wilds. A part of the elements. Even the dirt.  I’ll take it.

I never thought I needed money.  Maybe I finally do.  I want enough to buy a valley – both sides – so no one is in my view.  And no one is near enough to hear, to roll their eyes as I run around howling like the wild woman I can be.

I don’t think it’s that I’m anti-social.  I just like to be alone.

~

early autumn color

 

~

early autumn color 2

~

In praise of the chainsaw.

Sixty four.  That’s the number of trees across the trail on the lower half mile of the North Fork of the Pine River.  Most of those down are beetle killed.  Trees dead, dried and snapped in the wind.  A few are still green.  Their needles now enough to catch the wind in this thinning forest.

Of course if the chainsaw were always allowed, like any motor or wheel, we’d be out of work in the Wilderness. Instead we have horses, shovels, the two person, cross cut saw where it’s all about rhythm.  Part passion, exertion, sweat. And part Zen, losing your mind to the back and forth push and pull.

The trail is still open.  In theory.  No “closed” signs or reports tell you otherwise.  Though crossing horseback might bring tears to your eyes and a few rips and tears to your horses’ legs trying to find a way over, around, through.

A part of the Divide system, it’s still not a popular section of trail.  In peak season on a normal year, you might get three or four groups passing by on any given day, going up, going down.  We know because we see.  Our ditch crosses the base of the trail and every once in a while a curious backpacker or lost Forest Service Newbie takes the wrong turn and comes down the ditch instead of the trail.  Water only flows down the ditch when “in priority.”  Otherwise, the ditch is a dry channel.  I guess I can see the possibility of someone mistaking it for one heck of a well used trail.

It’s not a popular section of the Wilderness.  Our use numbers are low, elevation high.  It’s far away, even to get to the trail head, away from any city, without cell phone service and internet access.  This is the real back woods.  The high country.  Left for the hard core. Left.

Well, I haven’t even mentioned the chainsaw yet and this section was going to be about that.

Here’s the deal.  The trees are dead and falling, and trails are being blocked far faster than a dandy group of young and ambitious Forest Service yes-men-and-women can get out there and clear them.  The trails are becoming impassable.  The point of the Wilderness, for man to come, travel lightly, enjoy the pristine and untrampled, and leave, is being lost.  Man – or woman – and the few that do come this far – can barely get in there and get around.  The place is a mess.  It’s a disgrace in places, and getting worse fast.

So, here’s my proposal. Tell me what you think about this. As chainsaws are about 400% faster than my dear cross cut saw, what if, for say, one week at the beginning of the season, early season, you know, when no one is really out and about up here yet for the year, we let them (or better yet, they let us, if you really want this to be about efficiency, but I know it’s still about more, like rules, regulations, control and bureaucracy…) take in chainsaws for just a few days and clear the trails, open up the access, clean the place up, allow our minimal use to continue and the tradition and dedication that made these trails possible in the first place to carry on in a respectful manner, to land and man, wild and curious.

~

sawing

~

Now we’re back home.  Guests have left early so there is an empty cabin with running hot water.  Showers feel especially good when it’s been five days and you’ve been out there really working.  So does bed.

Home is still simple.  For us now, a one room cabin, still propped up on blocks of firewood until we build something else, a little bigger, down here some day.  For now, we have bunk beds.  Forrest on the top; Bob and I down below.  In the middle of the night a cat forgets we’re back and jumps from the top bunk and lands on my face.  I awake to a bloody nose and can’t find a flashlight to find my way to a little water in the jug on the counter to wipe myself clean.  Sometimes a little too cozy.

Though earlier I visited the outhouse in the dark of night with the door open to the sound of the river below and a spectacular show of distance lightning in the sky above.  Beat that.

Simple pleasures.  You think it sounds like fun, but do you really want to be here? For how long? Are you ready to give up your bed, toilet and kitchen sink, medical insurance, job security, regular payments towards your debt which has allowed you a bigger better life? Trade that for bugs and cold and wet and dirt and sore muscles and regular cuts and bruises and a bloody nose at best? Is it not enough to come here one week out of every year and dream about if for fifty others?

You may have more comforts and luxuries and fancy foods and nights on the town and you won’t get me to want to trade places.

I’ll take my dirty life.

~

sunny white flower

 

~

gunnars world

~

fishing

~

 

Digging up dirt

~

rain on leaf

 

~

rain on grass

~

Ditch Diaries.

Year Seven.

Trip One.

~

water running over rocks

 

~

a part of the ditch

~

There is nothing like this to clear the air, erase the past, tire the body until the mind finally stops thinking.

Hard work. Good, hard, dirty work, in the purest, simple sense.

Digging ditch.

Packing into the Wilderness by horse.  Just the three of us, six horses, and one bold dog to keep us all in line.  Shoveling, picking, dragging, slipping, saddling up, hauling, heaving, heavy breathing and plenty of dirt, sweat and soaking from the rain.  Sleeping an inch off the ground, getting comfortable with creepy, crawling, flying things, and tossing cleanliness out the window, if we had one.

Lo and behold, there before us as we sit with our tin cups filled with cheap box wine and plates hot on our lap.  The Rio Grande Pyramid and Window before us.

~

rio grande pyramid and window

 

~

view from camp

~

We’ve been doing this so long we’ve seen hillsides die and new flowers bloom, drought years and decent water years which means a lot of hours working in the rain, good grass for the horses and slim pickings, early frost and late blooming, grass stalks setting seeds weeks apart from what they did the year before, and waiting for the moon to set just so in middle of that Window.

We look at the ditch in terms of what year we worked on each section. Time told around shovels, slopes, slips and blisters. By the number of ibuprofen popped, packages of hamburger helper consumed, gloves worn through, and horses trained on the job.  How about the number of slip handles repaired, leather horse hobbles lost in the grass, corny jokes told in tired delirium and photos taken of that same incredible mountain looming so large before me as she does right now?

We set the tent up in the same old place.  Home away from home.  The horses put their heads down and proceed to graze before we even unload.  They know the deal.  The dog digs up an old bone and finds a faded red ball left behind from last year or the year before.

And yet nothing is ever the same.

~

pyramid and window and beetle kill

~

skeletons

~

Of course more trees have died. Now we count the devastation in terms of mountainsides ravaged, add it up by the miles of forest, not the actual trees.  You couldn’t count if you wanted to.  I don’t want to.

We sit by the fire in the evening with our wet socks off and tired feet drying and hear one fall in the distance.  Sounds like a gun shot.  Only for those of us working in the woods, far more frightening. We don’t say a word and look down at our toes.

This year the spring has gone dry.  The one by which we’ve camped for the past five years.  Each year a little less water.  This year, not enough to water a horse.  We have six here with us.  We walk further and let them drink at the river.  Norman, the gentle giant, pulls up his stake and walks there alone.  He’s usually back by the time we notice him missing. He never goes far.

Empty trails with the only tracks being that of the elk.  Eerie. This is peak season.  Not that it’s ever too crowded around here, and not that we are here to see people.  Really, not at all. But somehow, this time of year, they belong here.  Backpackers. Hiking the Divide.  A few days.  A week.  A month.  Maybe the whole trail in one long season, Mexico to Canada. Somewhere in the distance.  Bright colors and big backs. Part of the landscape.  Like afternoon monsoons, early morning dew, and deer slipping in between the timber as we lead our horses out to graze.

Where are the moose this year that have in the past been a regular part of our weekly viewing?  Neither home nor here.  I worry about these things, too. Has the low snow taken its toll on this species as it has on the Canadian Lynx trapped up there and brought down here, and did we really think they might remain?  Those that didn’t high tail it and try to head home, slowly starve.  Beautiful creatures with which we’ve played God.  Despite the trauma of trapping, transporting and being dumped in an area hit so hard by climate change, we still say we’re doing good.  I’ve yet to hear someone say this is good for the animal.  I only hope my beloved moose, slow and lumbering through the willows in the snow banks and one of the few brave enough to tough out the winters here with us, will choose to remain, and maybe even thrive.

For the first time we see repulsive brown sacks squirming in the willows, an infestation of fuzzy caterpillars, little white cocoons.  Miller moths.  We have not seen them here before. Not this high. The willows, already weakened from the ongoing drought, are suffering further still as their branches are stripped to feed the chrysalis.

They don’t belong.  Out of place, as grotesque as initials carved into the trees by passing tourists who somehow think this is ok.  It’s not graffiti because it’s on a living tree? *

And trash.  Tell me this, please.  Who would come this far only to leave their garbage here?  Some things are better left back home. Perhaps some people, too.  And tell me this, too: who the hell packs in Diet Coke to the Wilderness?

~

trash

~

full moon setting

~

water flowing down river

~

I’m having trouble bouncing back, seeing the beauty, finding the good.  The fire burned a part of me too.  I bet if I went to town (which chances are I won’t for a while) I’d hear others say the same.

It was hard.  We all lost something.  A part of the forest.  A part of us.  Something we all deemed sacred.  Why we are here.  Our connection has been burned.  If we feel deeply enough, we feel the loss.  We are left somehow lost, lacking, incomplete.

It’s time to heal.  Rebuild.  We can’t go back but we can move on. Do you know how?  I can’t wait for time to heal it all.  I need to do something now.

Get me back to work.  Stop worrying about litter and trashy folks, forget for a while about finances, fires, future decisions, and blasts from the past still haunting me.  For now, just grab a shovel and get to work.  For now, nothing else matters except moving dirt.

~

flowers

 

~

rain on white flower

~

 

* Forgive me, as I know of one exception where such a memorial is sincerely a sad but welcome part of this land.

Turn Around

 

tres and pink elephants

~

monkshood

~

indian paintbrush

~

Finally the sound of children laughing.  Families out playing.  I didn’t forget.  This is good stuff.

Life as normal.   You might say.  Though maybe not.  Back on track?  Or is that backwards?  Maybe I’m ready to jump tracks.   Again.

The road is open, guests are here, leisure people in the distance sitting around with cocktails and chatter, the miller moths have hatched, this is the worst season for horse and deer flies we remember, and afternoon thunderstorms drive us and the flies to shelter. We’re finally heading off to work at the ditch, the horses are fit and shiny, the grass is green, the road is muddy, and a fire in the woodstove feels pretty good right about now.

The forest fires are out, fire ban lifted, the crews have packed up and left, the rains are plentiful.

These are the cold hard facts.  Pretty nice, I’d say. Now it’s only rumors still spreading like wildfire. Get over it and don’t drink the KoolAid.  No need to preach doomsday here.  Nor do I want to hear blind optimism and see shallow smiles.  Get real.  Look around.  This one’s over.  What’s next?  In the meanwhile, get to work and stay out of trouble.  Best advice I can turn to. That’s all I need to do right now.

We’re off to the ditch.  Nothing like good hard work to cure the blues.  This is about as good and hard as it gets.

The book on Ginny and the time in Argentina, by the way, was completed two days ago. I love deadlines.  There will be some revisions, modifications, refinements.  Hopefully not too much.  I want it real, raw, and most of all, a fun read and an inspiring story.  I think that’s what we’ve got here.

Now it’s back to the Ditch Diaries.  What are we into now, Year Seven?

Until next week…

Sending love and light from these wet wild hills.

Gin

~

orange aspen leaves

~

rainbow and heavy sky

 

~

 

Into Tomorrow

A Celebration.

~

lost trail ranch and pole mountain

~

We have been blessed.

We have been untouched by smoke and fire, and now there is rain.  Sweet, sweet rain.  The smoke and plume that passed through lower ground is being replaced by afternoon sprinkles.  The sky clears.  The earth heals.

Our wonderful county, our beloved country, all those who worked so hard and risked their lives, we thank you.  You have been amazing.  Over a hundred thousand acres, and not one house or cabin lost.   We are so proud of you, so proud to be here.

We at Lost Trail Ranch have remained untouched by these frightening fires. The only scars we see are in the silence of this time when there should be children running in the damp grass, laughter in the woods, singing up the trails, and tight lines along the river.

In this silence, we are reminded of why we are here, these cabins built, Bob’s major renovations, Gin’s meticulous cleaning.  This is not for us. This is for you.

We await your return to your little bit of paradise.  Come share in the celebration of life.

~

me and bob

~

Know too that life is ever changing.

What we knew yesterday is no longer.  Today is something new.

And sometimes, to change, the past must die.

Now is a time of cleansing.

Tomorrow is rebirth.

I stand in the middle of time and worlds and shed tears for what I knew and have shivers of anticipation for what I will see tomorrow.  And no time, I see, is more rich than here and now.

I mourn for the mountain I already saw die, and now see strength in this purging, beauty in knowing what will come.  The great mystery.  Do more than open my eyes to watch.  Be alive within it.  Be a part of the rebirth as we are a part of the death

These words I write to Ginny and she tells me I should share:  “I feel the mountain, and feel the burning is cleansing, she rids herself of the century of suppression (the Forest Service policy for over 90 years of putting out wildfires) and the beetles which have taken advantage of the situation and have ravaged.  That for me was harder.  That is when the trees died.  This is in a way a release.  Caused by the skies.  She heals herself.  All we need to do is get out of Her way.”

~

columbine

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What do we do now? Where do we go from here?  What have we learned, and how will we handle the rest of the trees that will burn?

And then what, we are wise to ask? Because there will be more.  And I’m not going to forget.  Brush it all under the carpet and call it quits and just be glad it wasn’t my part of the mountain that burned, because next time if could be.

I want to be positive, encouraging, build back my business that continue to be closed, but I also need to realistic.  Responsible.  And what matters more?  The income I have lost and continued to lose?  Or the mountain, mine, yours, the one that will be here for my grand children and their children that I hope will be here long after you and I are gone.  That is our job.  Mine and yours.

~

afternoon rain clouds

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We are lucky to not have to rebuild.  We do not even have to clean up.  We just swallow the loss and deal with the debt, open our doors when the road opens and hope people come, carefully. That part is actually easy.

What about the rest?  Our neighbors down mountain with a charred back yard.  The river, the fish, down river for how many miles.  The rest of these trees dead standing.  The long term effects, including, as one friend brings up, the impact on our air.  What could be more basic?

At times I’d like to turn a blind eye. Out of sight, out of mind. Wouldn’t that be easy.  Today we’re fine. Who cares about tomorrow?

Only I can’t.  Never could.  And I don’t plan on starting now.

~

forth of july reservoir

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It has been an interesting few weeks.  Holding out, holding up.  Remaining in the evacuation zone.  Trying to go on with life, maintain your balance, but life is turned upside down and staying upright isn’t so easy.

We stayed here because this is our home, and they knew that, and I shall always thank them for letting us remain.  Understanding. We fought to be here before.  We can fight for it again.

What would it have cost us if we left?  We are already losing too much.  But its money, only money.  Look what we do have, what matters most.  Home.  Each other.  That’s the biggie.  No money in the world could buy me better.

Day before yesterday, the boys head to town for the first time since well before the closed road.  I’m about out of wine, the silly little loaner hens haven’t been keeping up, and those darned squirrels are eating more of my lettuce, chard and kale than I can grow.

Our world is slowly opening.  A summer homer is hanging out somewhere up here and the cowboys are hard at work gathering cows that have been scattered for miles with open fences and closed roads.

We’ve managed just fine.  And not alone. The community, though far away, at times seem close. Among the many thank yous that I would like to say:  Greg for his compassion (not to mention hard work), Eryn  for her generosity, Sammy and Clint for their offers to help (and believe me, you both were part of the plan if push came to shove), Camille & Melvin, Betty & Jack – for helping feed us, and the Swansons for being the neighbors if you could choose you would choose, and lucky us, we can. The county, our commissioners and sheriff’s department and firefighters and EMTs. The brave and skilled crews that came from far away.  All of you who have written, shared your stories, reached out, touched in words and yes, that does mean a lot to me.  Karen… for more than I can put in a post…  And my boys. Always my boys. Because sappy as this sounds, they are the sunshine in the smokiest of days.

To all those family and friends that have cared, shared, reached out, expressed, thought about the future more than just holding onto the past.

Thank you.

~

family on forth of july

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We will get through this.  You know it.  We will look back and say, “Remember that year with the terrible fire?” Only I know it’s not over.  Maybe now, for this year, this time. But not in the big pictured, the long run.

Sherie writes, “…Make your witnessing loud & vocal… Draw the line on the map… Do it, Gin, use your ammo.”

Wise and challenging words. Thank you.  This is what I need.  To see the big picture. When it’s too easy to focus on me, mine, here, now, and a little business in a big forest.

I’m between a rock and a hard place.  Support and encourage my business, or work for the mountain, the trees, the birds and fish and flowers, moss and air.

I feel I must.  I am obliged.  How can I say I care so much but be willing to do nothing?  As I would fight for the life of my child, so I feel I must for the mountains, the Earth.

Ultimately, I must choose the greater good.

~

forth of july reservoir 2

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In the deepest darkness

light

A view from the charred hillside where a forest once stood

Green grass begins to grow.

Beauty everlasting

everchanging

Not what she was yesterday

now free to fly with great bright wings

into tomorrow

Finding beauty in a broken world. *

~

wet leaves

~

*From the book of that title by Terry Tempest Williams.

Above the fire

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papoose fire from above the rio grande reservoir

 

~

On the spine of the sleeping beast.  She begins to roar.

From here I do not see the charred hillsides, once lush stands of spruce trees now no more than smoldering black sticks. But remember this: it has been a while since they were lush, has it not?  They have been standing dead for years.  We knew one day they would have to burn, what else could be their fate, and we chose to see the pretty things instead, the open view, the filtered sunlight, the silent trails lined with once live needles.

From here I do not see the balls of fire consuming those trees, swirling dragons of angry smoke into the grey and orange sky, unless I climb the hill and look over.  It’s not easy.  This is big country.  Climbing that hill takes all afternoon. I should be doing something else, more productive, not thinking about this which I can’t get off my mind.

This is not the place for facts and figures. I can only tell you what I see, and that’s not much.  The tops of clouds, changing color, shifting directions, watching the wind. This is a personal account.

There is an eerie silence when and where there should be old men fishing and young children laughing.

I’m trying to be quiet.  Not to raise concerns.  Stay out the way, out of trouble, a few less to worry about.  We’ve heard a lot of, “if anyone could make it up there and get out if need be, you three would be the ones.” And still I know people worry.  I’m sorry.

We are here.  We are fine.  For now.  What more can I say?  We were caught unprepared and look how prepared we are.  This is our home and where we belong.

We are not leaving.  Not yet.  We’ve got the horse trailer packed with a change of clothes, sleeping bags and coffee in case we find ourselves living in there, and have been checking the horses’ shoes.  Maybe we will have to leave some day.  Driving down the road would be an easy option.  Heading horseback up and over is another.  We’ll manage if we have to. Only, I don’t want to.

Where will go?  The three of us, our dog, two cats, eight horses, ten hens and a rooster.  More untrained volunteers there to help?  I know that isn’t really help. We’d be in the way.

Take a vacation?  Oh, come on. We’re losing a minimum of what, $3000/week at this rate.  I wake in the morning with a sick stomach and it only barely goes away during the day and how can it when all around us are the smoke and clouds that allude to the truth I am trying to escape.  And cannot.

Some mornings you wake and you wonder if it’s a dream.  A bad dream.  But one you’ll finally wake up from and everything will be ok again. There will be guests arriving and we’ll be packing for the ditch, and the sky would be blue, air clear, and the trees would still be green.

What are we doing now? We moved down to the Little Cabin by the river, a one room log structure we dragged here over the snow by snowcat.  An outhouse, a storage building that was an old portable sheep herders camp now with the axels removed, a lot of candles and one little solar panel – not for a light, but for a satellite dish for internet. We were planning on renting out the big house, remember, the one with indoor plumbing, private bedrooms and even a kitchen sink, to guests for the season.  Only there are no guests, but that’s no reason for us to return.  We’re not the sort to give up.

So I keep on writing, completing the manuscript, the boys trudge to work at the neighbor’s, and we wait until evening when we can look through the red tint of wine at the sickly yellow sky as it fades to black and then step out to see a few stars, maybe just one or two, maybe the whole Big Dipper, depending on the direction of the wind and which way the smoke has settled, and we see nothing else and take comfort in that void, and try to forget that just on the other side of that ridge, the trees are still burning.

~

An update from the Upper Rio Grande

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above the reservoir

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Updates from the Upper Rio Grande

I’m sorry – I’m unable to respond to everyone who has written to check in with us as in depth as I would like.  I know you care.  I hope this helps answer some of your questions, relieve some of your concerns.

I’m overwhelmed with the current situation and still understand everyone’s interest in what’s going on.  I especially appreciate your concern, your compassion.  I do not mean to be impersonal by writing one post and sharing it with you all.  It is written for you. Each of you.  All of you.  Anyone who cares enough to ask and then to read.

I can’t tell you what’s happening.  I can only tell you what I see.  Here.  On the mountain.  My eyes.  My words. From my home.  Read them if you want.  Don’t if you can’t.  They’re not always pretty.   But they will be real.

What do I see?  Morning smoke rolling up from the Reservoir like a heavy fog.  Afternoon plumes like mushroom clouds over Finger Mesa.  This morning I see clouds. Real clouds.  I see hope.

I’ve seen other things.  Like a dead calf on the outside of fence line.  Mother on the inside.  A fence weak enough to let in a bunch of free range cows.  Tight enough to keep in an abandoned horse.  Things like a horse trailer half full ride right by the pasture where that horse has been left.  Things like a woman more concerned with the contents of her fridge spoiling than the well being of her fellow man (and another so quick to think of us up here, and offer us those contents). Or a guy hauling out four truck loads and two trailers worth of “stuff” from his summer home (and another showing us the keys to his and the vehicles he left behind “just in case” we need them).

What matters most?  Stuff?  I think of people who built here, people who live here, people with no other place to go. I think of how many have their homes threatened, places they built or built onto, their livelihood threatened, their back yard and within feet from their doorstep charred.  Stuff doesn’t matter.  The three of us each packed a backpack with what we thought we’d really need, still hanging by the door, just in case. That was evacuation day.

The mountain has been evacuated.  The fire is below us.  We are still here.

If you want an update with facts and figure on the Papoose Fire, now included in the West Fork Complex, there are some good web sites.  These are a few:  http://www.inciweb.org/incident/3436/ ,http://www.hinsdalecountysheriff.com/Emergency_Incident_Info.php, http://www.acemergency.org/.  Look at them.  Don’t listen to Facebook rants and e-mail gossip, please.  Or if you choose to, take it with a grain of salt.  Some of it may be right. Much of it is wrong.  And trust me, it will be emotional.  This whole deal is.  It’s frightening, humbling, sickening, sad, and confusing.

Suddenly you realize how little you are.  How little control you have.  This Mother Earth is far stronger than you or I will ever be.  That should give you hope.  No matter what we do to mess up this beautiful place, She will heal and be OK, long after we are gone. I take comfort in believing that.  Everyone has their own beliefs.

Anyway, let me tell you where I’m at.  Lost Trail Ranch.  Our home.  Our guest ranch.  At least it was.  I mean, it’s still here, standing, untouched and rather unaffected by the massive fires and smoke.  Except we have no guests, and it may be a while before they are allowed to be here.  So the “guest ranch business” currently isn’t.  It’s like winter – the half the year here on the high mountain that we’re used to blocked access, closed roads, and no people around for miles.  Only it’s warm.  The horses are on green grass and the chickens are laying eggs. And people are supposed to be here.  This is how we make our living.  Or not this year.  But that’s just a minor detail.  Money.  What matters most, you find, is your family.  And we’re fine, here, together.

Yes, I’ve seen a lot from up here this week, and much of what I have seen has been glimpses into the best and worst of human nature. Once again, I’ll stick with Mother Nature.

But I’ve also seen the best of human beings.  I’ve seen bravery.  Kindness.  Reaching out. Generosity.  I’ve seen compassion. So much compassion.  This makes eyes swell hot and full with tears,  because this is really beautiful, and this is really what matters, and this, compassion, is what at the end of day allows us to remember everything else around us – from the minor unpleasantries of our fellow human beings to the huge, overwhelming destructive fire we watch rip up an acre of dead standing timber in a matter of minutes as we sit back against at rock and watch. And for all this we send prayers to those brave and strong, dedicated and determined enough to be out there, in there, doing what they can to help. And because of that we can still sleep at night.

And that is what you need to remember when you think about your back yard burning up, a forest once lush and green that will never be again in your lifetime or your children’s lifetime, homes and lives threatened, businesses blown away in the ashes, wildlife fleeing or worse, remaining.  You do have to think about it all.  The good and the bad.  But make sure you end by thinking about the good.  No matter how hard you have to look to find it.

There are brave people, good people, great people.  I’ve seen a few.  I don’t want to name names.  They know who they are.  I’ve got a lot of thank you letters to write when this is done.

I also must put in here a special word to our guests and to all those reading this who may be scheduled guests for other places nearby:  This road is closed and the area evacuated.  Today.  (Who knows about tomorrow?  I’m not going to try to guess.) Lost Trail Ranch is too currently closed, though we are living here, watching, waiting.

We understand how this affects your vacation plans.  This is currently the case for scheduled guests for resorts in South Fork, Creede and up in these mountains.  The losses are tremendous and continuing. This is a natural disaster and emergency unlike anything we have ever experienced here.  We cannot predict nor assume how or when the fires will subside and the road will open.  We thank you for your patience, your understanding, and so often, your kind words and your compassion.

There are no answers we can provide at this time.  We ask that you please follow the links provided and other official sources to keep up to date with current conditions in the area.  We are inundated with trying to communicate with county, Forest Service, guests, summer home neighbors, family and friends during this terrible time.

There is much more to say, to share, but you only have so much time to read, and I only so much time to write.  So, that’s all she wrote for now.  Until next time.

Sending love and light from these high wild mountains,

Gin

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view from lost lakes

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Leave of absence

Taking a break from the blog for the next month in order to complete the manuscript based upon my time in Argentina and the story of Virginia Neary Carrithers.  Please keep in touch, check back in, and I shall look forward to resuming posts as soon as I have this project completed.

Sending love and light from these wild mountains.

~

beetle kill 2

 

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red columbine

 

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spring raven

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